Guwahati: A silk value chain project, funded by the World Bank under the Assam Agribusiness and Rural Transformation Project (APART) initiative, is steadily gaining momentum across Assam.

The APART project is being implemented by ARIAS Society, which is an autonomous body, headed by the Chief Secretary, Assam. Directorate of Handloom & Textiles, Assam, is a line department and implements "Silk Value Chain" activities as an "Operational Project Implementation Unit. " Directorate of Handloom & Textiles, Assam, engaged NEDFi as a service provider for Design input and marketing support activities only.

The North Eastern Development Finance Corporation Ltd. (NEDFi), a service provider for Design input and marketing support, is promoting Assam's renowned 'eri' and 'muga' silk to establish it as a distinctive market niche. The Department of Handloom Textile & Sericulture and several other institutions are also involved.

"The project aims to elevate eri and muga silk into high-end products and benefit 17,000 people, including 10,000 in the sericulture sector and 7,000 in the handloom sector", Chandrakanta Das, who serves as the marketing lead at NEDFi, shared with Business North East.

The Rs 22.80 crore project aims to empower rural and indigenous weavers economically, with profit-sharing arrangements ensuring they benefit substantially from retail sales, according to Das. So far, the project has engaged 500 weavers, with plans to make products available through designated NEDFi counters like NE-Shilp.

NEDFi has collaborated with a team of designers hailing from prestigious institutions like the National Institute of Design (NID), the National Institute of Fashion and Technology (NIFT), and the Textile Institute, along with merchandisers, to promote the unique silks and keep weavers informed about prevailing fashion trends, as NEDFi, doesn't also manage the design aspect.

"The project's scope extends to crafting a diverse range of products, including stoles, garments, bed runners, and cushion covers, using pure or blended silk with cotton, mulberry, modal, and natural dyes, tailored to suit both summer and winter climates," Das added.

The exquisite materials also require a lot of care - Das has recommended washing with hand and cautioning against sun drying. "Usually, we would provide an instruction leaflet to the buyers", he added.,

At present, the project procures handspun materials from local weavers scattered across Assam's clusters in districts including Dhemaji, Dhakuakhana, Sivasagar, and Sonitpur. The clusters include THE IWA Silk Farmer Producer Company Ltd Kamrup, Mejangkori Multipurpose Producer Company Ltd. Kamrup, and Titabor Paat Muga Farmer Producer Co Ltd Jorhat, among others. To enhance quality, mill-spun threads are also utilized, especially in crafting eri sarees.

The project commenced in late 2022, though progress could have been faster due to various challenges such as technological constraints, uneven thread supplies, equipment shortages, skill upgrades, and lag in common service centres (CSC). However, production picked up in 2023, and the business has earned Rs 50 lakhs despite the initial delays, Das asserted.

Recognizing the power of social media in modern marketing, the project is also exploring ways to digitize traditional offline promotional activities like participation in exhibitions such as BharatTex.  "We are aiming to reach boutiques and retail brands in major metropolitan areas,"  Das said. "Additionally, we've suggested organizing meetings between buyers and sellers to exhibit muga and eri silk and emphasize their unique attributes."

However, pricing can be a sensitive matter. Therefore, the focus is on enhancing the economic well-being of rural and indigenous weavers, ensuring they receive maximum profits from the program. "We have a profit-sharing model, with 20–25 percent of profits from retail sales allocated to the weavers. Our primary market target is the high-end segment, Das said, adding that they have also collaborated with prominent entities like Reliance Foundation, while efforts are underway to engage with e-commerce platforms like Myntra.

In line with sustainable practices, the project promotes zero waste, repurposing leftover materials into tassels for handloom sarees and mekhela chadars.

Meanwhile, Das has stressed the need for enhanced skills training to meet evolving market demands, especially for intricate weaves like twirl and denim. "Our local indigenous weavers previously were not skilled enough to weave specialized pieces besides the gamusas and mekhela chadars, and it is a necessity to upgrade the skills of the weavers."

Das has highlighted the importance of equipping sellers with the knowledge to effectively communicate the quality and uniqueness of the materials they offer. "Buyers should be able to sell the products through a story and hence should be aware of the importance of high-end silk. We are preparing them for the bigger and niche market," Das told BNE. They have also approached the government for a dedicated showroom for muga and eri silk.

Plans are also in place to target international markets, with a potential deal with a US buyer seemingly on the horizon. Muga silk has several qualities that set it apart, such as its UV protection, and the luxury status of eri silk.

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