Over 32,942 power loom gamosas were seized last year and more than 300 power loom gamosas were seized in Guwahati's fancy bazaar area on April 8, 2024, alone

Guwahati: Ahead of Rongali Bihu, Assam's Handloom and Textile Department has launched a crackdown on gamosas made on power looms to protect the livelihoods of indigenous weavers from the state.

Explaining the move, Paragmoni Mahanta, director of the department, told Business North East, "We have a plethora of small shop owners inclined towards cheaper alternatives, which often outweighs the promotion of handloom products." According to official records, 739 shops have been raided, resulting in the seizure of 2572 pieces of power loom gamusas till April 8.

In the preceding year, a ban on power loom gamosas, mekhela sadors, and power loom aronais were imposed by the state government from March 1 to April 14 to preserve the authenticity of traditional handloom and the indigenous weavers. However, the agony of indigenous weavers continues. The report detailing the enforcement actions showed that the districts of Assam have showcased varying levels of compliance.

In Sonitpur, Barpeta, Sivasagar, Golaghat, Jorhat, Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, and Nalbari, no gamosa seizures were reported. In Biswanath, 109 gamosas were seized from 29 locations. Darrang and Nagaon recorded no seizures from 39 and 10 locations visited, respectively. In Tinsukia, 870 gamusas were seized over 11 days, while Goalpara reported 173 seizures from 4 locations. Dhubri reported 48 gamosas seized from 4 locations, while 6 gamosas were seized from 6 shops in Lakhimpur.

On April 8 alone, over 300 power loom gamosas were seized in the Fancy Bazaar area of Guwahati, one of the busiest marketplaces. Throughout the financial year 2023–24, district officials seized over 32,942 power loom gamosas from various business establishments, records from the state handloom and textile department said.

Das explained that during festive seasons like Bihu, street stalls overflow with traditional items like gamusas and mekhela sadors, often priced much lower than handloom products. "Despite our efforts since 2023 to promote handloom and curb powerloom, street vendors offer gamusas at reduced prices ranging from Rs 50 to Rs 100, attracting more buyers,"  he added.

Shedding light on the underlying challenges, Mahanta said, "Our aim is not merely about enforcing regulations; it's about reigniting a sense of pride in our traditional artisans."

Jamini Borgohain, Assistant Superintendent at the Directorate of Handloom & Textiles, Assam, emphasized the importance of quality and market dynamics in determining product prices and told Business North East, "Price often varies with the quality of a product and is subjected to market mitigation."

Meanwhile, 78 selling centres have been established across several districts of Assam, to promote and improve the market for handwoven gamusas in the state. In just a week, sale worth Rs 5.5 lakh was reported. However, the government has set a much higher target of Rs 3 crore.

"We have also reached out to government offices and Bihu committees to encourage the adoption of handwoven gamusas," Das said. "Despite these efforts, challenges persist as market capitalization has always been a challenge here." Mahanta recognized the difficulty in halting the influx of products from factories in cities such as Surat, Ahmedabad, and Bangalore into the market. "If we continue importing despite a surplus in production, the challenges will continue in the market," he said.

He further highlighted the varieties of GI-tagged gamusas which include, Uka gamusa, Fulam gamusa, bihuwan, tiyoni gamusa, aanakota gamusa, telosh gamusa, dora boronor or jur gamusa, xadharon gamusa, adding that the first batch of GI tagged gamusas will soon be released by the department.

However, obtaining the GI tag has not significantly improved the situation for weavers, who continue to face challenges. Export numbers remain low, indicating ongoing struggles in the industry, said Borgohain.

In a bid to boost sales and market visibility, the Handloom Department has collaborated with Indiehaat, an online platform showcasing Indian artisans' work. However, despite surplus stocks, profits remain modest with the influx of just Rs 1 lakh, Borgohain said, highlighting the need for innovative market strategies.

Looking ahead, the department has plans to facilitate partnerships with traders and entrepreneurs, allowing them to connect and sell handwoven gamusas and other handlooms through their platforms. Registration links will soon be made available.

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